Choose A Mountain Bike Frame Size Is Important

You can easily end up with the wrong mountain bike frame size. You can’t go off the listed frame size anymore. Here’s how to avoid getting it wrong.

Bad news: mountain bike frame size is all over the place. There is no consistency. One brand’s Medium/17in a bike is another brand’s Large/19in. What’s more, a lot of bike manufacturers’ – and even bike shops’ – sizing advice is often wrong too.

Ultimately you do not have a foolproof frame size. Not one that tallies with what bike brands say, nor one that is consistent from bike to bike. This means shopping for a bike is not simple, particularly if browsing online beforehand. It is not a good idea to select just one frame size and filter the results by that; select the frame size the brand recommends and also the size above.

But with all that said, to give you at least a head-start on what frame sizes to shortlist, whether you’re looking to upgrade or are trying to choose the best beginner mountain bike, here is our mountain bike size guide:

Mountain bike frame size guide

Under 5ft 2in (-157cm) = 13in to 14in (XS)

5ft 2in to 5ft 6in (157cm to 167cm) = 15in to 16in (Small)

5ft 6in to 5ft 10in (167cm to 178cm) = 17in to 18in (Medium)

5ft 10in to 6ft 2in (178cm to 188cm) = 19in to 20in (Large)

6ft 2in or above (182cm+) = 21in to 23in (XL/XXL)

What to do if you’re ‘in between’ mountain bike frame size

We’d strongly advise going for the larger of the two options. It’s easier to make a large bike fit without impairing how it handles; fitting a shorter stem and/or sliding the saddle forward on its rails arguably actually improves bike handling. Trying to make a small bike fit by putting a longer stem on it and/or sliding the saddle backward on its rails will end up impairing the bike’s handling.

The thing to bear in mind when going up a frame size is to make sure there is sufficient standover clearance. Standover is how high the top tube is at the point where you’re astride your bike and straddling it. If the bike has enough standover, you’re on to a winner.

Why are things so messed up?

The problem is that bikes have always been sized by the length of their seat tubes. There’s no reason for us to go into why this is so (short version: blame roadies) but you do need to understand that this is a big problem.

Whilst seat tube length is important it is not the most important measurement on a bike frame.

The modern move away from frame sizes being listed in numbers of inches has been an improvement. Using ‘Small’, ‘Medium’ and ‘Large’ etc instead of ’16in’, ’17in’ or ’19in’ is a much better idea.

What measurement is the most important then?

Reach.

Why is reach the most important measurement?

Reach is the distance between the bottom bracket axle and the center of (the top of) the head tube. See the diagram above.

This is a very difficult thing to measure on a bike in the flesh unless you’re happy to take plumb lines and tape measures into your local bike shop. Thankfully any bike brand worth its salt includes a reach measurement on the geometry charts of its bikes.

Why is reach the vital thing? Because it dictates how the bike fits you. It governs if a bike is too cramped or too stretched out for you.

And, unlike seat tube length, the reach cannot be adjusted. You can adjust your saddle height up or down to accommodate seat tube length. Reach cannot be adjusted. You’re stuck with it. A bike with too short a reach will always be too small.

Don’t think you can adjust incorrect reach by changing to a different stem length or by sliding your saddle on its rails backward. Changing stem length will impair how the bike steers and handles. And saddles slid far back on their rails won’t mean a thing when you’re stood up out of the saddle, and when you are seated slid-back saddles will result in inefficient pedal power and a wander, lift-prone front end.

Don’t end up with the wrong mountain bike frame size

A common result of going off sizing advice from a bike brand (or even a bike shop) is to end up with a bike that’s too short in reach and comes with a stem that’s too long.

A 6ft tall person would end up choosing a 21 inch frame mountain bike. Then the 29er Full Suspension Carbon MTB Frame MFM100 is the best option.

For more info please check our official website: https://www.trifoxbike.com/

Beginner’s Guide to Buy A Road Bike

To the casual observer, carbon road bikes all look pretty similar. Drop-bars, light-weight, skinny tired. Built for speedy rides on the tarmac.

Look closer, and you’ll discover a number of subtle differences in components, frame materials, and frame geometry depending on the bike’s intended use.

We’ll be taking you through the most important factors you’ll need to consider so that you’ll be able to find the right bike for your riding style.

What kind of riding will you be doing? 

The first question to ask yourself, is Race or Sportive bike?

For new road riders, or anyone whose joints are not as good as they were, then a more relaxed, more upright position is key to keeping things comfortable. This is your Sportive bike. In the last few years, we have seen a huge growth in Sportive type road bikes, from entry-level to high performance.

Frame and fork material

Another key area to consider, when you’re purchasing your first road bike, is whether you want a carbon or alloy frame and/or fork.

Most entry-level road bikes will be aluminium-framed road bicycles, and perhaps a carbon fiber fork; this provides a good balance between reliability and robustness of the alloy frame, but with vibration absorption provided by the more compliant carbon material in the fork.

If you’re looking to have a bike with a lower weight, and greater lateral stiffness though, then you should consider a full carbon frame and fork. Carbon framed road bikes are lighter, and they can be more comfortable (because they’re more compliant); therefore they can be faster!

Groupset

The third thing to pay attention to is the groupset model specified in the bike description. This is the bike’s transmission and brakes.

The groupset manufacturers you will most commonly see are Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo. Each has a hierarchy of groupset models, from basic entry-level right up to the same parts you’ll see the pros using.

The best buying advice is to go for the best groupset you can afford. Higher-end groupsets provide smoother shifting, more gear choice, and overall lighter weight.

Disc brake road bike or caliper road bike?

Perhaps the ‘question of the moment, is whether you get a disc brake road bike or a caliper (traditional rim brake) road bike.

There are benefits and drawbacks of both systems. Disc brakes are fantastic at having consistent stopping power, in wet and dry conditions; even when the bike sprays up a quantity of dirt and grit onto your wheel rims, you can still brake consistently with disc brakes. Rim brakes, by contrast, tend to suffer in particularly wet or grimy conditions; however, they are cheaper, easier to maintain, and provide more wheel upgrade choices.

We won’t try to persuade you one way or the other; disc or rim brakes, your first road bike will be great fun!

If you want to get more tips for choosing a road bike, please visit our official website:https://www.trifoxbike.com/

How To choose A Fork for Your Mountain Bike

The fork is one of the essential elements of a bicycle, both in terms of performance and comfort. Its purpose is to absorb shocks taken on the front of the bike. Many types of forks exist, depending on the use of the bicycle. Today we will guide you to choose a suitable carbon fork for your mountain bike.

How It Works

The operation of a mountain bike fork is quite simple, two divers sink when there is compression in the sleeves, protected by seals. During the time of relaxation, the divers make the opposite path by withdrawing from the sleeves.

Forks come in various forms: rigid, single-arm, single, double Tee. Their operating modes are different. The entry-level models are generally spring-loaded, while the mid-and high-end models use technologies that use air and oil (to increase lightness).

Pivot, Axle, and Bracket Support

Another important variable is the size of the fork pivot diameter: 1″1/8 (28.6 mm) or 1″1/2 (38.1 mm).

The diameter of the axle for the wheel is to be checked if you want to keep your wheel. This axis can be 9mm, 15mm, or 20mm.

Finally, the braking system, its compatibility must also be checked. There are now 3 assembly standards: International Standard (IS), Post-Mount (PM), and rim brakes (V-brake) The market has now almost fully adopted the IS and PM standard

s. However, some entry-level models still offer the possibility of installing V-Brake brakes.

Forks Adapted to Practice

The key to success in choosing a mountain bike carbon fork lies in defining future use. Depending on the practice we are going to do (downhill, freeride, enduro, cross-country), the size of the travel is not the same. Travel is the distance that can be damped by the fork. This distance is therefore more or less important depending on the models. If you would like to know more about the fork, please visit our official website:https://www.trifoxbike.com/

8 Tips for Buying Your First Mountain Bike

If you’re new to Carbon MTB, or a road rider looking for the thrills of hitting the dirt and going off-road, it’s handy to know what to look for when it comes to finding the right mountain bike. So check out our top tips on how to find the perfect ride to get trail-ready.

1. Get the right size

First up, everything else is secondary to the right frame size. But don’t rely on stated size – while many companies are switching to small, medium, and large instead of increasingly inaccurate numbers, (seat tubes have been shrinking even as frames get longer), there’s no standardized idea of what, for instance, constitutes large. One brand’s large can match another medium.

Instead, you’ll want to ensure that your bike is the right fit for you. Look for (and contrast) the reach (distance from the saddle to the bars) and stack (distance from the center of the crank to mid-head tube) measurements, and don’t be afraid to go longer than with a road bike. A long front triangle puts the axle further ahead, letting you weigh it (for grip) without risking going straight over the bars at the first impact. It also helps with climbing by keeping your front wheel planted.

Just don’t go so long there’s no standover clearance. You only need a couple of centimeters. A short seat tube gives good standover and the greatest room for maneuver, but make sure you can still get full pedaling height without overextending the Seatpost. Note that 29ers have taller fronts, and that riding position can be significantly tweaked with alternative stems, bars, and seat posts.

2. Choose a wheel size

Diameters have settled to an easy, binary choice of 27.5in (650b, aggressive trail, and downhill) or 29in (XC and trail). However, wide-rimmed Plus sizes and the recent trend towards 29in downhill wheels are muddying the waters.

While strong, stiff, and light(ish) 29ers will undoubtedly become more common in the next few years – along with suitable tires and frames – for now, the choice remains largely the same: favor bigger hoops for big miles, or smaller, stronger ones for smashing trails. Plus sizes can really pay off on hardtails, but they’re sensitive to tire pressure and there’s some question over whether they’re really here to stay.

3. Choose hardtail or full-suss

The rear shock, bearings, linkage, and extra manufacturing complications of full suspension all cost money. Consequently, you’re likely to get a better parts spec on a hardtail over a full-suss bike at the same price. You’ll have less maintenance and fewer things to go wrong, too.

On the other hand, full-suss bikes are now more advanced than ever, so their advantages can still outweigh their disadvantages. There’s no need to dismiss either, but forget needing to ‘learn’ on a hardtail before getting ‘a big bike’ – it’s a myth. Really, this one is my preference. 

4. Don’t obsess about weight

Weight is important but off-road, strength is marginally more important. Flimsy has no place when random rocks, roots, and ruts can grab at you from all angles – steering accuracy, cornering, and confidence all suffer, dragging your speed down with it. It’s better to carry a few extra pounds and keep your bike out of the hedge. And out of the workshop, too.

5. Beware the flashy trinkets

Don’t be fooled by a nice rear mech (derailleur): it’s common for these to be up-specced to help sell the bike. A quality mech is important, but so too are the shifters and cranksets – even the chainrings aren’t too far behind. Be aware that lower-spec components are heavier, more rudimentary, and not worth paying a premium for, so factor in your plan for future upgrades. FSA has a variety of quality MTB components available.

6. Choose suspension quality, not quantity

Check the reviews of the forks and shocks (on full suss) on the bike you’re looking at, and use the manufacturer’s site to get the exact models. Note that OE (original equipment) units can be a different (often lower) spec than similar-looking aftermarket ones. Quality damping and a decent air spring will do far more for you than any amount of extra travel.

7. Look for a futureproof design

Check for current/popular axle diameters and spacing, plus headset, bottom bracket, and even Seatpost diameters – you’ll struggle to get the increasingly popular dropper post (for changing saddle height on the fly) in the smallest diameter, for instance. Internal routing for ‘stealth’ droppers is also desirable, though what internal gear cabling/brake hosing gains in looks it can lose in noise and ease of maintenance.

8. Keep some budget back

You will benefit from a dedicated trail helmet, with its greater coverage, stronger construction, and decent peak. You may also want a backpack, plus glasses for warding off flying crud. Then there are sticky shoes for flat pedals, mountain bike-specific shoes, cleats, and clipless pedals.

You may also want new tires to suit your terrain, or simply because OE tires may use harder, cheaper compounds and/or heavier steel beads than their aftermarket namesakes. You may also want to tune your gearing, and almost certainly customize the shape and size of your cockpit.

On the upside, this all still counts as upgrading your bike!

5 Tips for Finding the Perfect Saddle

How do I find the perfect Carbon Bike Saddle? A question that every cyclist will be familiar with. After all, whether you are a keen MTBer, road racer, or triathlete, everyone wants to ride comfortably, without pain, and get the best out of their bike. We help you on your way with five tips for finding your ideal saddle.

Find the Saddle with the Right Shape

No two people are the same. This is why there are so many different saddles available. In the first place, the shape of your saddle depends on your gender. Usually, ladies sit better on a wider, specific female saddle.

But the shape of your saddle also depends on the type of cycling you do. Do you race under extreme circumstances, like downhill for instance? Then you will need a different kind of saddle than an MTBer who wants a saddle that is as light as possible, or a road racer who has to sit on the saddle for hours in a row. So when looking for the right saddle, it’s important to find one that fits your discipline.

Take Account of Your Flexibility and Your Position on the Bike

Test your flexibility. You do this by sitting on the ground and seeing how far you can reach with your hands. How far do you get? Do you struggle to even reach forwards? Then you are less flexible. Can you touch your toes? Then you are very flexible. If you are around halfway, then you are flexible. People who are less flexible have the tendency to shift around on their saddles. A more rounded saddle is better for them. A flexible cyclist has a more stable position on the bike and tends to sit more comfortably on a flat saddle that provides more freedom of movement. The very flexible cyclist actually benefits more from a slightly curved saddle.

Whether you sit comfortably on your bike depends to a large degree on your riding position. Some cyclists prefer an upright position, but others would rather maintain a more sporting or even aerodynamic position. The further you bend forwards, the more pressure you put on the forward part of your pelvic area. And that can lead to pain or numbness. Choose a saddle that suits your riding position and lightens the pressure on crucial parts of your body. That’s how to prevent saddle pain.

Measure the Width of Your Sit Bones

Saddles come in different widths. If you know which type of saddle you’re looking for and your riding position, then choosing a saddle is straightforward. But bear in mind that saddles are sold in various widths. The width of your saddle depends on the distance between your sit bones. By measuring this, you can discover exactly which saddle is best for you. It’s very easy to measure the distance between your sit bones. You can see more details on our official site: https://www.trifoxbike.com/

Set the Saddle to the Right Height

Now you’ve found the perfect saddle, the next step is to set it to the correct height. This contributes to a more efficient pedal stroke and helps to prevent irritating symptoms from arising. Since determining the correct saddle height is important we advise doing a professional bike fit by https://www.trifoxbike.com/ to determine your correct inseam so you are no longer guessing since the numbers tell the tale!

Saddle Position

Ensure your saddle is horizontal. If the nose of your saddle is pointing too far up or down, then you may experience discomfort in certain undesirable areas. If your saddle is too far forward or too far back, this can lead to problems with your neck, lower back, or arms. If you set both your pedals in the horizontal position, then drop a plumb line from your knee, your saddle is in a good position when the plumb line runs past the shaft of your pedal. You can then play around with setting your saddle forwards or back. But don’t make these changes too large, just make minor adjustments to your position. 

How to Choose A Handlebar for Your Bike

The handlebars, saddles, and locking shoes constitute the “golden three points” of the human body and the single workshop. These three contact points determine the riding comfort and the overall compatibility between the rider and the body. The handlebar is set to a necessary consideration for a good cockpit system. Further, the shape, size, and correct setting of the handlebars are critical to the comfort of the rider’s shoulders, neck, back, arms, and hands, while avoiding the occurrence of partial paralysis. This time, I want to talk to you about how to choose a handlebar and provide a reference for novices who are interested in upgrading and remodeling their bike.

How wide should the handlebar be?

Generally speaking, it is recommended that riders decide the width of the handlebar according to their shoulder width, but this is only a standard, in addition to the rider’s riding style, riding habits, and comfort.

A wider carbon bike handlebar can improve riding comfort and handling. If you are a novice, or do not pursue aerodynamic advantages and prefer a light off-road Gravel route, it is recommended to choose a wider handlebar. On the contrary, if you want to develop into road racing or like to engage in long-distance riding, you can choose a narrower handlebar width. For example, if you should use a 420mm handlebar based on the shoulder width, you can change the handlebar width. into 400mm.

Aluminum or carbon fiber?

As for the material selection, some drivers still have to consider their own budget first. The difference between carbon fiber handlebars and aluminum alloy handlebars lies in weight and comfort. Carbon fiber handlebars are lighter in weight, and because carbon fiber is elastic and has a shock-absorbing effect, it will feel more comfortable to hold when riding. But relatively, the rigidity of carbon fiber handlebars is worse than that of aluminum alloys. In terms of durability and firmness, aluminum alloys are slightly better.

If you want to upgrade your bike, then changing the handlebars is definitely more beneficial than updating the wheelset or even a new bike. Find the most suitable handlebars according to your needs and physical constraints. It is recommended that novices who do not know their riding style or preferences can give priority to “comfort” and “handling”. After all, if you want to ride for a long time, Riding far, the relief of discomfort is still important!

For more details please check our official website: https://www.trifoxbike.com/ 

How to Choose A So-called Good Bike for Yourself

First of all, when we buy a carbon fiber mountain bike, we often ask a very vague question: what kind of bike do we buy or what kind of mountain bike do I buy?

The concept of “good” is actually a very subjective concept. If we want to answer the question of what kind of bicycle is “good”, we need to set many objective restrictions on it. For example, what do you want to do with this bike and how much budget do you have? These are two important objective conditions.

Then within these two conditions, we can say what kind of bike is better or more suitable.

So now, when we buy bicycles, whether it’s children’s physical exercise at school, commuting to and from work, we tend to choose a mountain bike. This is closely related to our general understanding and view of sports bikes for a long time, but does each of us need a mountain bike? Or can mountain bikes meet all our needs? The answer is Negative, or not-so-special affirmation.

When we bought the bike, the first impression was the shape, color, and appearance of the mountain bike. Secondly, we would listen to the introduction of the clerk, including its configuration, its transmission, how fast the transmission system is, whether it is a hydraulic front brake, whether its front fork belt is locked, etc.

But these are some very superficial configurations. In fact, for a mountain bike, we all know that its core component “frame” is often ignored – all-aluminum alloy frames – but in fact, it is different from ATX to XTC. They are all aluminum alloy frames, but the use of these two different frames has a very different trend – the ATX series, which is for the purpose of leisure riding. On the basis of leisure riding, XTC has added many factors for cross-country riding and mountain riding, so we need to pay attention to this.

Today we show a few points for choosing a bike for a newbie, if you want to get more info, please check our official website: https://www.trifoxbike.com/

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When riding a bike uphill, do you ride a bike sitting or standing?

The question of whether to sit or stand uphill is usually easy for novices or leisure cyclists to answer: standing is better because it allows you to walk faster. And standing bike looks cool and can shake the bike.

First, consider the relative energy consumption of sitting and standing uphill. In general, cyclists perform best when they can find the rhythm and stick to it. By sitting up the hill, you may walk a little slower, but you should be able to better maintain a consistent rhythm for a long time. By standing up, your rhythm will be broken immediately. That’s because changing your posture will disrupt your driving dynamics and increase your heart rate, making it more difficult to rise.

At the same time, the uphill performance is also related to your weight. Lighter riders usually climb faster than heavier riders. Conversely, heavier people tend to glide faster downhill.

Physical science professionals answer: “put your ass on the carbon bike saddle.” They can tell a lot of scientific evidence, but sometimes standing riding is inevitable. You may find a very steep hillside that is difficult or impossible to climb without standing. In competition, the attack is usually carried out in a standing position. These strategies are completely acceptable.

The answer is given by professional drivers: “it all depends on the steepness and length of the climb and their physical strength”. With a small slope, you can climb completely fast without standing. Sitting at this time is more aerodynamic. If the slope is too steep, you may need to stand up, because first, you have to make sure you can climb to the top of the mountain.

Climbing uphill is an exciting and hard task, and even for experienced cyclists, uphill riding is a challenge. All you can do is take a deep breath, focus on the top, and move on.

Analysis of the causes of knee pain when cycling

Too high a carbon bike saddle can cause pain on the outside of the knee.

A low seat saddle can cause pain in the inside of the knee.

Heavy stepping can cause pain behind the kneecap, and the tenderness point is on the kneecap.

Cycling can indeed cause very serious knee injuries, In short, it can be divided into the following categories:

When riding, try to use the pinion ratio to improve the stepping frequency. Don’t use the gear ratio too heavy. You must use light stepping. Start riding 10 kilometers with light teeth, with even force, and with no excessive rest, We don’t encourage riding uphill. If you can ride uphill, don’t force it. The cart is not a matter of falling off the chain. Please rest assured that the comrades in arms in front will wait for you and won’t fall behind you.

The main reason is that the riding posture is not correct. Avoid riding with the outer figure 8 or the inner figure 8.

If the bicycle is pulled too high and the legs are stretched too straight when pedaling, it is said that it will also cause knee injury.

The pain in the inner thigh of the knee area is non-persistent. It is often found when changing the posture when sleeping or working for a long time. It is manifested as slight tingling. This is not a knee injury, but a strain of the medial thigh ligament. Most of the reasons are due to the incorrect riding posture itself. The most common is the external splayed leg of cycling.

Most of this situation is not serious and does not affect the actual riding. Use the inner leg lock to correct the posture, and at least reduce the strength of KMS.

Pain in the upper seam of the knee area, non-persistent, similar to 1, manifested as swelling or tingling. This situation is due to the strain of muscles and tendons caused by stepping on or shaking the bicycle vigorously, which is common after climbing the mountain and shaking the bicycle continuously. You don’t need to care too much. Just pay attention to rest and reduce your strength.

The cartilage tissue inside the knee is damaged. There is a sense of foreign body in the knee during exercise. There is swelling and pain when pressing the knee bone. The pain will be aggravated by shaking the knee bone back and forth, left and right.

This is the real knee damage, which must be treated with physical adjuvant therapy, and no large-scale activities shall be carried out for a while. Hiking and mountaineering are more prone to such problems, and cycling seems to be OK.