Best XC MTB Frame Buying Guide

MTB frames are built for riding at speed off-road but there is a huge variety on the market, with types to suit every possible riding discipline and riding style – from lightweight carbon racing whippets to burly bruisers that can take on the toughest terrain. In the first instance, MTB frames fall under two main categories: hardtail and suspension frames. In this article, we will talk about hardtails xc MTB frames.

Hardtails: As the name suggests, hardtail (HT) MTBs forego rear suspension in favor of a fully rigid frame. They are generally lighter and less expensive than their full-suspension cousins so are commonly used as the basis for entry- or mid-level bikes, or else for lightweight top-end racers. Some people, however, just prefer to ride a hardtail. Some of the most common categories of hardtail frames are race, trail, and dirt/street/4X.

Race: These frames are aimed at cross-country (XC) racers, long-distance marathon-style events; less technically challenging trail center runs, and just generally covering plenty of off-road miles. They typically feature relatively steep head and seat angles (a seat angle of around 73 degrees and a head angle of around 71 degrees being considered ”classic’ XC geometry), placing the rider in the optimum position for seated pedaling, especially uphill. Top tubes will meanwhile be on the long side, allowing for the ”stretched’ riding position that enables riders and racers to get plenty of air into their lungs.

Race frames are typically made from aluminum allow (for low- to mid-level offerings) or carbon fiber (for high-end models). They are designed for 80-100mm travel forks and 26”, 27.5”, or 29” wheels, with the latter being increasingly common.

Trail: More and more hardtail frames have departed from the ”classic’ XC design above (steep angles, 80-100mm travel) in favor of slacker angles and longer-travel forks. These modern trail hardtails of 120-140mm front travel offer many riders the perfect balance between lightweight pedaling efficiency and rough-and-tumble high-speed fun.

Seat and head angles are a little slacker (head angles of 69 degrees or less being characteristic of the modern trail hardtail) so that riders can get their bodyweight well back on the bike on steep, technical downhill trails. Top tubes are generally shorter, giving a more upright riding position which is not optimum for all-day pedaling but gives much greater rider control on difficult terrain.

Frame materials are typically aluminum or steel, the lively and supple ride feel of the latter has made it increasingly popular among modern trail hardtail riders not overly concerned with the slight weight penalty involved, with 26” or 27.5” wheels.

Street, dirt, and 4X: Hardtails frames built for the demanding disciplines of dirt jumping (DJ), street riding, and four-cross racing (4X) are designed less with pedaling efficiency in mind than with the ability to take serious and sustained punishment, and live to tell the tale.

DJ and street bikes generally feature overbuilt aluminum or steel frames which are tougher and heavier than those found on their xc and trail counterparts, with smaller sizes providing increased agility in the air and ”clickability.

The frames are married to 26” wheels and around 100mm of suspension travel courtesy of stiffly-sprung front forks.

For more info about XC MTB frame please visit our official website: https://www.trifoxbike.com/

How To choose A Fork for Your Mountain Bike

The fork is one of the essential elements of a bicycle, both in terms of performance and comfort. Its purpose is to absorb shocks taken on the front of the bike. Many types of forks exist, depending on the use of the bicycle. Today we will guide you to choose a suitable carbon fork for your mountain bike.

How It Works

The operation of a mountain bike fork is quite simple, two divers sink when there is compression in the sleeves, protected by seals. During the time of relaxation, the divers make the opposite path by withdrawing from the sleeves.

Forks come in various forms: rigid, single-arm, single, double Tee. Their operating modes are different. The entry-level models are generally spring-loaded, while the mid-and high-end models use technologies that use air and oil (to increase lightness).

Pivot, Axle, and Bracket Support

Another important variable is the size of the fork pivot diameter: 1″1/8 (28.6 mm) or 1″1/2 (38.1 mm).

The diameter of the axle for the wheel is to be checked if you want to keep your wheel. This axis can be 9mm, 15mm, or 20mm.

Finally, the braking system, its compatibility must also be checked. There are now 3 assembly standards: International Standard (IS), Post-Mount (PM), and rim brakes (V-brake) The market has now almost fully adopted the IS and PM standard

s. However, some entry-level models still offer the possibility of installing V-Brake brakes.

Forks Adapted to Practice

The key to success in choosing a mountain bike carbon fork lies in defining future use. Depending on the practice we are going to do (downhill, freeride, enduro, cross-country), the size of the travel is not the same. Travel is the distance that can be damped by the fork. This distance is therefore more or less important depending on the models. If you would like to know more about the fork, please visit our official website:https://www.trifoxbike.com/

8 Tips for Buying Your First Mountain Bike

If you’re new to Carbon MTB, or a road rider looking for the thrills of hitting the dirt and going off-road, it’s handy to know what to look for when it comes to finding the right mountain bike. So check out our top tips on how to find the perfect ride to get trail-ready.

1. Get the right size

First up, everything else is secondary to the right frame size. But don’t rely on stated size – while many companies are switching to small, medium, and large instead of increasingly inaccurate numbers, (seat tubes have been shrinking even as frames get longer), there’s no standardized idea of what, for instance, constitutes large. One brand’s large can match another medium.

Instead, you’ll want to ensure that your bike is the right fit for you. Look for (and contrast) the reach (distance from the saddle to the bars) and stack (distance from the center of the crank to mid-head tube) measurements, and don’t be afraid to go longer than with a road bike. A long front triangle puts the axle further ahead, letting you weigh it (for grip) without risking going straight over the bars at the first impact. It also helps with climbing by keeping your front wheel planted.

Just don’t go so long there’s no standover clearance. You only need a couple of centimeters. A short seat tube gives good standover and the greatest room for maneuver, but make sure you can still get full pedaling height without overextending the Seatpost. Note that 29ers have taller fronts, and that riding position can be significantly tweaked with alternative stems, bars, and seat posts.

2. Choose a wheel size

Diameters have settled to an easy, binary choice of 27.5in (650b, aggressive trail, and downhill) or 29in (XC and trail). However, wide-rimmed Plus sizes and the recent trend towards 29in downhill wheels are muddying the waters.

While strong, stiff, and light(ish) 29ers will undoubtedly become more common in the next few years – along with suitable tires and frames – for now, the choice remains largely the same: favor bigger hoops for big miles, or smaller, stronger ones for smashing trails. Plus sizes can really pay off on hardtails, but they’re sensitive to tire pressure and there’s some question over whether they’re really here to stay.

3. Choose hardtail or full-suss

The rear shock, bearings, linkage, and extra manufacturing complications of full suspension all cost money. Consequently, you’re likely to get a better parts spec on a hardtail over a full-suss bike at the same price. You’ll have less maintenance and fewer things to go wrong, too.

On the other hand, full-suss bikes are now more advanced than ever, so their advantages can still outweigh their disadvantages. There’s no need to dismiss either, but forget needing to ‘learn’ on a hardtail before getting ‘a big bike’ – it’s a myth. Really, this one is my preference. 

4. Don’t obsess about weight

Weight is important but off-road, strength is marginally more important. Flimsy has no place when random rocks, roots, and ruts can grab at you from all angles – steering accuracy, cornering, and confidence all suffer, dragging your speed down with it. It’s better to carry a few extra pounds and keep your bike out of the hedge. And out of the workshop, too.

5. Beware the flashy trinkets

Don’t be fooled by a nice rear mech (derailleur): it’s common for these to be up-specced to help sell the bike. A quality mech is important, but so too are the shifters and cranksets – even the chainrings aren’t too far behind. Be aware that lower-spec components are heavier, more rudimentary, and not worth paying a premium for, so factor in your plan for future upgrades. FSA has a variety of quality MTB components available.

6. Choose suspension quality, not quantity

Check the reviews of the forks and shocks (on full suss) on the bike you’re looking at, and use the manufacturer’s site to get the exact models. Note that OE (original equipment) units can be a different (often lower) spec than similar-looking aftermarket ones. Quality damping and a decent air spring will do far more for you than any amount of extra travel.

7. Look for a futureproof design

Check for current/popular axle diameters and spacing, plus headset, bottom bracket, and even Seatpost diameters – you’ll struggle to get the increasingly popular dropper post (for changing saddle height on the fly) in the smallest diameter, for instance. Internal routing for ‘stealth’ droppers is also desirable, though what internal gear cabling/brake hosing gains in looks it can lose in noise and ease of maintenance.

8. Keep some budget back

You will benefit from a dedicated trail helmet, with its greater coverage, stronger construction, and decent peak. You may also want a backpack, plus glasses for warding off flying crud. Then there are sticky shoes for flat pedals, mountain bike-specific shoes, cleats, and clipless pedals.

You may also want new tires to suit your terrain, or simply because OE tires may use harder, cheaper compounds and/or heavier steel beads than their aftermarket namesakes. You may also want to tune your gearing, and almost certainly customize the shape and size of your cockpit.

On the upside, this all still counts as upgrading your bike!

How to Choose A Handlebar for Your Bike

The handlebars, saddles, and locking shoes constitute the “golden three points” of the human body and the single workshop. These three contact points determine the riding comfort and the overall compatibility between the rider and the body. The handlebar is set to a necessary consideration for a good cockpit system. Further, the shape, size, and correct setting of the handlebars are critical to the comfort of the rider’s shoulders, neck, back, arms, and hands, while avoiding the occurrence of partial paralysis. This time, I want to talk to you about how to choose a handlebar and provide a reference for novices who are interested in upgrading and remodeling their bike.

How wide should the handlebar be?

Generally speaking, it is recommended that riders decide the width of the handlebar according to their shoulder width, but this is only a standard, in addition to the rider’s riding style, riding habits, and comfort.

A wider carbon bike handlebar can improve riding comfort and handling. If you are a novice, or do not pursue aerodynamic advantages and prefer a light off-road Gravel route, it is recommended to choose a wider handlebar. On the contrary, if you want to develop into road racing or like to engage in long-distance riding, you can choose a narrower handlebar width. For example, if you should use a 420mm handlebar based on the shoulder width, you can change the handlebar width. into 400mm.

Aluminum or carbon fiber?

As for the material selection, some drivers still have to consider their own budget first. The difference between carbon fiber handlebars and aluminum alloy handlebars lies in weight and comfort. Carbon fiber handlebars are lighter in weight, and because carbon fiber is elastic and has a shock-absorbing effect, it will feel more comfortable to hold when riding. But relatively, the rigidity of carbon fiber handlebars is worse than that of aluminum alloys. In terms of durability and firmness, aluminum alloys are slightly better.

If you want to upgrade your bike, then changing the handlebars is definitely more beneficial than updating the wheelset or even a new bike. Find the most suitable handlebars according to your needs and physical constraints. It is recommended that novices who do not know their riding style or preferences can give priority to “comfort” and “handling”. After all, if you want to ride for a long time, Riding far, the relief of discomfort is still important!

For more details please check our official website: https://www.trifoxbike.com/ 

How to Choose A So-called Good Bike for Yourself

First of all, when we buy a carbon fiber mountain bike, we often ask a very vague question: what kind of bike do we buy or what kind of mountain bike do I buy?

The concept of “good” is actually a very subjective concept. If we want to answer the question of what kind of bicycle is “good”, we need to set many objective restrictions on it. For example, what do you want to do with this bike and how much budget do you have? These are two important objective conditions.

Then within these two conditions, we can say what kind of bike is better or more suitable.

So now, when we buy bicycles, whether it’s children’s physical exercise at school, commuting to and from work, we tend to choose a mountain bike. This is closely related to our general understanding and view of sports bikes for a long time, but does each of us need a mountain bike? Or can mountain bikes meet all our needs? The answer is Negative, or not-so-special affirmation.

When we bought the bike, the first impression was the shape, color, and appearance of the mountain bike. Secondly, we would listen to the introduction of the clerk, including its configuration, its transmission, how fast the transmission system is, whether it is a hydraulic front brake, whether its front fork belt is locked, etc.

But these are some very superficial configurations. In fact, for a mountain bike, we all know that its core component “frame” is often ignored – all-aluminum alloy frames – but in fact, it is different from ATX to XTC. They are all aluminum alloy frames, but the use of these two different frames has a very different trend – the ATX series, which is for the purpose of leisure riding. On the basis of leisure riding, XTC has added many factors for cross-country riding and mountain riding, so we need to pay attention to this.

Today we show a few points for choosing a bike for a newbie, if you want to get more info, please check our official website: https://www.trifoxbike.com/

FULL SUSPENSION MFM100 SUPER GIFT PACKAGE

1. FRAME MFM100
2. DROPPER SEATPOST
3. HANDLEBAR RHB100
4. BOTTLE HOLDER CBC200

FOUR IN ONE ONLY 1099 USD
LIMITED TO 40 PCS

When riding a bike uphill, do you ride a bike sitting or standing?

The question of whether to sit or stand uphill is usually easy for novices or leisure cyclists to answer: standing is better because it allows you to walk faster. And standing bike looks cool and can shake the bike.

First, consider the relative energy consumption of sitting and standing uphill. In general, cyclists perform best when they can find the rhythm and stick to it. By sitting up the hill, you may walk a little slower, but you should be able to better maintain a consistent rhythm for a long time. By standing up, your rhythm will be broken immediately. That’s because changing your posture will disrupt your driving dynamics and increase your heart rate, making it more difficult to rise.

At the same time, the uphill performance is also related to your weight. Lighter riders usually climb faster than heavier riders. Conversely, heavier people tend to glide faster downhill.

Physical science professionals answer: “put your ass on the carbon bike saddle.” They can tell a lot of scientific evidence, but sometimes standing riding is inevitable. You may find a very steep hillside that is difficult or impossible to climb without standing. In competition, the attack is usually carried out in a standing position. These strategies are completely acceptable.

The answer is given by professional drivers: “it all depends on the steepness and length of the climb and their physical strength”. With a small slope, you can climb completely fast without standing. Sitting at this time is more aerodynamic. If the slope is too steep, you may need to stand up, because first, you have to make sure you can climb to the top of the mountain.

Climbing uphill is an exciting and hard task, and even for experienced cyclists, uphill riding is a challenge. All you can do is take a deep breath, focus on the top, and move on.

Analysis of the causes of knee pain when cycling

Too high a carbon bike saddle can cause pain on the outside of the knee.

A low seat saddle can cause pain in the inside of the knee.

Heavy stepping can cause pain behind the kneecap, and the tenderness point is on the kneecap.

Cycling can indeed cause very serious knee injuries, In short, it can be divided into the following categories:

When riding, try to use the pinion ratio to improve the stepping frequency. Don’t use the gear ratio too heavy. You must use light stepping. Start riding 10 kilometers with light teeth, with even force, and with no excessive rest, We don’t encourage riding uphill. If you can ride uphill, don’t force it. The cart is not a matter of falling off the chain. Please rest assured that the comrades in arms in front will wait for you and won’t fall behind you.

The main reason is that the riding posture is not correct. Avoid riding with the outer figure 8 or the inner figure 8.

If the bicycle is pulled too high and the legs are stretched too straight when pedaling, it is said that it will also cause knee injury.

The pain in the inner thigh of the knee area is non-persistent. It is often found when changing the posture when sleeping or working for a long time. It is manifested as slight tingling. This is not a knee injury, but a strain of the medial thigh ligament. Most of the reasons are due to the incorrect riding posture itself. The most common is the external splayed leg of cycling.

Most of this situation is not serious and does not affect the actual riding. Use the inner leg lock to correct the posture, and at least reduce the strength of KMS.

Pain in the upper seam of the knee area, non-persistent, similar to 1, manifested as swelling or tingling. This situation is due to the strain of muscles and tendons caused by stepping on or shaking the bicycle vigorously, which is common after climbing the mountain and shaking the bicycle continuously. You don’t need to care too much. Just pay attention to rest and reduce your strength.

The cartilage tissue inside the knee is damaged. There is a sense of foreign body in the knee during exercise. There is swelling and pain when pressing the knee bone. The pain will be aggravated by shaking the knee bone back and forth, left and right.

This is the real knee damage, which must be treated with physical adjuvant therapy, and no large-scale activities shall be carried out for a while. Hiking and mountaineering are more prone to such problems, and cycling seems to be OK.

How to adjust the saddle of a mountain bike more comfortable?

The higher the saddle of a carbon fiber mountain bike, the more flat the angle will be; If the seat saddle is low, the angle will tend to tilt up, so that the seat is stable. In fact, the seat saddle should be purchased according to your own body. In the case of horizontal, it will also top the boys’ eggs because of the inclination of the body, but if the seat saddle is a little lower, you will feel the body sliding when cycling.

There are also many riders who have a concave curve in the middle of the saddle. When they sit on it, they will naturally sit in the most concave place instead of the largest place on the saddle. It is normal to feel uncomfortable. In fact, they can make the front edge of the seat tilt up a little, so as to keep the rear half of the seat at a basic level.

Some new riders, like to sit on the back half of the saddle when riding. Although it feels comfortable, it is not conducive to leg exertion. On ordinary level roads, it is recommended to sit in the middle of the seat, so that the seat can hold up the upper body. At this time, it only plays the role of supporting body balance. Whether going uphill or downhill, you can sit at the front of the seat according to your personal habits and try to sit behind the seat.

Especially when riding for a long distance, the saddle bears the private parts for a long time and oppresses some organs such as the prostate, which is easy to causes congestion, poor urination, easy bacterial reproduction, and other symptoms. Therefore, no matter how far you ride, it is very necessary to rest at an appropriate time, so that the exercise effect of riding will be better.

Put the handlebar higher, or move the seat forward, which will change the force application position of the pedal, which is not the best force application position. The setting here should be suitable for the bone movement of the foot rotation speed, generate the necessary output power to adapt to a certain speed, and make the maximum output of the muscle at the best foot force application position, so as to maximize the use of muscle movement.

Conclusion: there are many kinds of bike saddles, from shape to filler grade, from whether hollowed out to seat rail of what material. I’ve used a lot of bicycles, and my bicycle is also a mountain bike. I can only say, either through professional measurement to find their own suitable seats, or try one by one. You can find similar seats according to your needs. Well, that’s all for today.

What to pay attention to when riding a bicycle in spring

Due to the COVID-19, many friends are trapped at home or in some other places and lack exercise. Spring is a good season for cycling and fitness. Let’s ride bikes together for health. Before we travel, it is necessary to understand some precautions for outdoor cycling in spring, which will help cyclists to protect themselves.

Carbon Fiber Road Bike Trifox X16

1. Pay attention to the choice of time

In the spring, the temperature in the morning is generally very low, the fog is relatively large, and there are more impurities in the air. At this time, it is not suitable for us to travel; the sun comes out, the fog has cleared, and the temperature has risen to a certain extent. At this time, it is more suitable for riding. When doing fitness. If you encounter rain, heavy fog, or blowing sand, try to stop your travel activities to avoid catching cold or suffering from respiratory diseases.

2. Take care to avoid the wind

There is a lot of wind and sand in spring and the climate is dry. Therefore, it is not easy to expose too many limbs when we are cycling to prevent the spring breeze from causing joint pain and chapped skin. (You can apply glycerin, etc.) At the same time, learn the breathing method of sniffing and exhaling. When cycling against the wind, try to wear a collar that can block sand or dust to prevent choking and dust from causing respiratory diseases such as rhinitis.

3. Keep warm

In spring, the climate is changeable. It is warm and cold at first. Dress reasonably when riding. It is best to wear cycling clothes to ride the bike. For example, I am wearing Vigmi, which is very comfortable every time I ride. Do not take off your clothes at will between cycling. It is advisable to slightly reduce your clothes when your body feels slightly hot. Don’t take off your clothes and rest at the wind vent after sweating profusely, it is easy to catch a cold and induce a cold.

4. Pay attention to sun protection

The skin is the largest organ of the human body, so you must pay attention to it. Tanning does not matter. The key is not to get sunburned. Although the spring sun is not very strong, you should also apply waterproof and sweat-proof sunscreen on the exposed skin.

5. Supplement moisture

No matter how low the temperature is, hydration is necessary and important. Cycling is a kind of endurance exercise. It wicks a lot of perspiration and needs a lot of hydration, while ordinary cycling water bottles seem to have insufficient capacity. Therefore, you must bring enough water for long-distance riding. Water bags are the best. Way.

6. Supplement energy

Long-distance riding makes it easy for cyclists to exhaust their energy. In this state, people have a poor appetite and basically do not want to eat, so everyone needs to be equipped with corresponding food.

7. Complete protective equipment

Because the helmet can effectively reduce the chance of a concussion when you fall off the bike, the American insurance regulations stipulate that you must wear a helmet when riding a bicycle, otherwise no compensation is required for an accident.

In addition, the commonly used protective gear when cycling is knee pads, ankle pads, elbow pads, and wrist pads, which can prevent injuries such as sprains and contusions during cycling. If cycling is regarded as a sport, then these protective devices must be equipped.

Warm reminder, cycling is a sport that competes with endurance. Long-distance cycling is easy to cause fatigue and cause accidents. When cycling, you must slow down and follow traffic regulations. Stop and rest as much as possible if you are physically weak. Long-distance cycling is the best Focus on safety, or read more information about safe riding.