Category Archives: Hardtail MTB

How To Recognize Bicycle Wheel Hub In A Way?

July 31, 2022 andywillguide Leave a comment

These tests validate observations made on a possibly faulty Bicycle Wheel Hub.

Side-by-side testing: You can test your bike wheel hub side-by-side.
You can pick up the top of the bike hub and push it from side to side.

Will the Bicycle Wheel Hub move laterally?

If so, the cycle hubs may have come loose and need adjustment.
Hand Check Test: Another trick is to use your fingers to tell if there are any hubs for mtb malfunctions.
You should first remove the road bike hub and check that the axle parts are secure.
Loose parts can damage the best hubs for mtb.

Try to feel the best mtb hubs bearing with your thumb and forefinger.
Ideally, it should feel smooth and well lubricated inside the single-speed hub.
If they wear out or need to be replaced, they can feel rough and dry.

What does a bad bicycle wheel hub on a bike sound like?

If your bicycle hub isn’t in top shape, prepare to hear chirps, squeals, or growls while you ride.
You can also tell that the sound relating to the mtb hub if the sound drops off when you stop the loop as the car accelerates.
Severe wear or rust will require you to replace the mountain bike hub, while dirt buildup or bearing problems can be easily resolved by cleaning, oiling, or replacing the bike wheel hub.

Manually inspect your bike hubs for rust or excessive wear, and a swing test can help you decide if cycle hubs need to be replaced.
To do the swing test, grab the hubs for mtb firmly and give it a swing.
If it moves more than a few millimeters left and right, it’s time to replace it.
If it’s fairly hard, you can try oiling or lubricating it to keep it going.

How to check the road bike hub?

An easy way to check the health of the best hubs for mtb is to feel it with your hands.
If the best mtb hubs are worn and dry, they can feel rough and metallic to the touch.
Check the acoustics: The sound of a single-speed hub failing is also the screeching and/or roaring sound of cycling.

Find the right bicycle wheel hub for your bike

Now that you know more about the nuances of bicycle hubs, let’s dive into what you should really be looking for when choosing the right hub for your bike.
Like the mtb hub, the mountain bike hub is dedicated to the front and rear.
bike wheel hubs are designed just to allow the wheels to rotate, bike hubs make up the gearing of the bike, and the freewheels or sprockets that drive the rear wheels are attached to the cycle hubs, on most bikes the hubs for mtb also have a freewheel mechanism.

What are the different types of road bike hubs?

The best hubs for mtb come in a variety of makes, sizes, and models depending on the bike to be connected.
The main and most obvious function of the best mtb hubs is to hold the wheel together with the frame elements.
In addition to that, the single-speed hub helps keep the brake rotors in place.
As an extension, the bicycle wheel hub transfers torque from the crank to the rear wheel, which allows the bike to coast without turning the crank forward.

Specifications of the hub

What does bicycle hub size mean?
mtb hub size varies by model as well as bike size.
The outer diameter calling the hub hole of the wheel, and the inner diameter calling the diameter of the mountain bike hub.
The specific ratio of the bike wheel hub hole to the bike hub determines the wheel size.

How do I know what size cycle hubs are?

Most modern bike manufacturers mention the hubs for mtb specification in their literature or have models available for common road bike hubs.
But if you still want to measure, you should measure the best hubs for mtb width to make sure it fits.
To do this, remove the rear wheel and use a tape measure or ruler to measure the distance between the inside surfaces of the release.

What is the best mtb hub width for a bike?

single speed hub width may vary by make/model of bike.
Below is a list of typical bicycle wheel hub widths, depending on the bike type.
Mountain Bike – 135mm
Road Bike – 130mm
Rail Bike – 120mm

If you want to know more about Bicycle Wheel Hub, please be free to click TRIFOX.

21 inch frame mountain bike, Carbon Bicycle, Carbon Fiber Bike, Cycling, Fork, Full Suspension MTB, Hardtail MTB

How To Make MTB Fork Send You To Favorable Environments?

July 27, 2022 andywillguide Leave a comment

When touching a new mountain bike, squeeze the mtb fork a few times.
It’s like starting a car engine.
Like the engine of a car, the mtb rigid fork is usually the focal point of the bike.
This is an important factor in bike performance and attitude.
Most experienced riders can look at the rigid fork on any bike and infer its performance.

Squeeze Test of Carbon Mtb Fork

MTB wouldn’t be as much fun without the extra traction, comfort, and control that the carbon fiber fork provides.
If you want to learn more, it’s worth looking at the different tapered fork out there and what they’re designed for.

This blog covers the most popular boost fork in every riding category, and you can find these non-tapered forks at TRIFOX.
This blog will make it easy for you to evaluate the intended use and functionality of the bike fork.
If you’re looking to upgrade your current cycle fork or assemble a bike, this is the perfect place to start.

The most modern bicycle fork uses air springs because they are lighter and easier to adjust.
The carbon rigid fork focuses on enduro and downhill like the Carbon MTB Fork TMK200 and Carbon MTB Fork TMK100 offer coil spring options.

Entry-level mtb fork often uses less expensive dampers that offer less adjustment to control compression and rebound damping.
The High-end rigid bike fork use more advanced dampers that are more responsive in rough terrain and offer more tuning options.
The damper is the biggest factor in the price difference between an entry-level and a high-end mountain bike rigid fork.

In many cases, the carbon bike fork of the same brand will use the same shock options in different models but use different chassis to customize performance.
For example, the Carbon MTB Fork QMK100 and Carbon MTB Fork QMK200 contain TRIFOX’s high-end Grip2 dampers.

Different models have the same damper performance, but weight and stiffness will vary depending on the strut diameter.

About 29er fork

The 29er carbon fork is designed to minimize weight and maximize efficiency.
To achieve this, the 29 rigid fork provides minimal travel and uses smaller diameter struts.
29er fork is typically 250-500 grams lighter than their counterparts.
The 29 fork also features a remote lever that allows you to quickly lock the carbon fork for climbing and smooth sections without taking your hands off the lever.

Some XC riders are already pushing the limits of their light XC bikes on steeper, rougher terrain.
So-called “off-road” bikes fill the gap between pure off-road racing and off-road bikes.
To accommodate these bikes, we introduced a lightweight version of the 29er rigid fork to improve performance on tough downhills.

Rigid mtb fork 29 sits between a lightweight trail fork and a heavy-duty enduro fork, balancing weight, stiffness, and travel to suit the widest range of riders and terrains.
These rigid forks can be found on short to medium-travel trail bikes that perform equally well on climbs and downhill.

Additional Reading

As far as downhill performance goes, the new generation carbon fork pushes enduro bikes to the extreme.
They’re still built with a single crown, but thanks to the massive struts, stiffness isn’t an issue.
Naturally, this makes these models heavier than the 29er carbon fork.
The most famous fork manufacturer is TRIFOX.
If you want to learn more about tapered forks, check out “How a Top Brand Makes Mtb Forks Work infinity?“
It covers technology, features, popularity, competition results, and the hierarchy in its carbon mtb fork.

Bike fork has different offsets, which can affect the handling of your bike.
If you want to know more about boost fork products, please click TRIFOX.

Carbon Bicycle, Carbon Fiber Bike, Cycling, Full Suspension MTB, Hardtail MTB, How, Knowledge, Mountain Bike, Riding, Road Bike

8 Tips for Buying Your First Mountain Bike

March 20, 2022 bellawangxiwen Leave a comment

If you’re new to Carbon MTB, or a road rider looking for the thrills of hitting the dirt and going off-road, it’s handy to know what to look for when it comes to finding the right mountain bike. So check out our top tips on how to find the perfect ride to get trail-ready.

1. Get the right size

First up, everything else is secondary to the right frame size. But don’t rely on stated size – while many companies are switching to small, medium, and large instead of increasingly inaccurate numbers, (seat tubes have been shrinking even as frames get longer), there’s no standardized idea of what, for instance, constitutes large. One brand’s large can match another medium.

Instead, you’ll want to ensure that your bike is the right fit for you. Look for (and contrast) the reach (distance from the saddle to the bars) and stack (distance from the center of the crank to mid-head tube) measurements, and don’t be afraid to go longer than with a road bike. A long front triangle puts the axle further ahead, letting you weigh it (for grip) without risking going straight over the bars at the first impact. It also helps with climbing by keeping your front wheel planted.

Just don’t go so long there’s no standover clearance. You only need a couple of centimeters. A short seat tube gives good standover and the greatest room for maneuver, but make sure you can still get full pedaling height without overextending the Seatpost. Note that 29ers have taller fronts, and that riding position can be significantly tweaked with alternative stems, bars, and seat posts.

2. Choose a wheel size

Diameters have settled to an easy, binary choice of 27.5in (650b, aggressive trail, and downhill) or 29in (XC and trail). However, wide-rimmed Plus sizes and the recent trend towards 29in downhill wheels are muddying the waters.

While strong, stiff, and light(ish) 29ers will undoubtedly become more common in the next few years – along with suitable tires and frames – for now, the choice remains largely the same: favor bigger hoops for big miles, or smaller, stronger ones for smashing trails. Plus sizes can really pay off on hardtails, but they’re sensitive to tire pressure and there’s some question over whether they’re really here to stay.

3. Choose hardtail or full-suss

The rear shock, bearings, linkage, and extra manufacturing complications of full suspension all cost money. Consequently, you’re likely to get a better parts spec on a hardtail over a full-suss bike at the same price. You’ll have less maintenance and fewer things to go wrong, too.

On the other hand, full-suss bikes are now more advanced than ever, so their advantages can still outweigh their disadvantages. There’s no need to dismiss either, but forget needing to ‘learn’ on a hardtail before getting ‘a big bike’ – it’s a myth. Really, this one is my preference.

4. Don’t obsess about weight

Weight is important but off-road, strength is marginally more important. Flimsy has no place when random rocks, roots, and ruts can grab at you from all angles – steering accuracy, cornering, and confidence all suffer, dragging your speed down with it. It’s better to carry a few extra pounds and keep your bike out of the hedge. And out of the workshop, too.

5. Beware the flashy trinkets

Don’t be fooled by a nice rear mech (derailleur): it’s common for these to be up-specced to help sell the bike. A quality mech is important, but so too are the shifters and cranksets – even the chainrings aren’t too far behind. Be aware that lower-spec components are heavier, more rudimentary, and not worth paying a premium for, so factor in your plan for future upgrades. FSA has a variety of quality MTB components available.

6. Choose suspension quality, not quantity

Check the reviews of the forks and shocks (on full suss) on the bike you’re looking at, and use the manufacturer’s site to get the exact models. Note that OE (original equipment) units can be a different (often lower) spec than similar-looking aftermarket ones. Quality damping and a decent air spring will do far more for you than any amount of extra travel.

7. Look for a futureproof design

Check for current/popular axle diameters and spacing, plus headset, bottom bracket, and even Seatpost diameters – you’ll struggle to get the increasingly popular dropper post (for changing saddle height on the fly) in the smallest diameter, for instance. Internal routing for ‘stealth’ droppers is also desirable, though what internal gear cabling/brake hosing gains in looks it can lose in noise and ease of maintenance.

8. Keep some budget back

You will benefit from a dedicated trail helmet, with its greater coverage, stronger construction, and decent peak. You may also want a backpack, plus glasses for warding off flying crud. Then there are sticky shoes for flat pedals, mountain bike-specific shoes, cleats, and clipless pedals.

You may also want new tires to suit your terrain, or simply because OE tires may use harder, cheaper compounds and/or heavier steel beads than their aftermarket namesakes. You may also want to tune your gearing, and almost certainly customize the shape and size of your cockpit.

On the upside, this all still counts as upgrading your bike!

Cycling, Experience, Hardtail MTB, Mountain Bike

Is the gearbox of mountain bikes as many as possible?

March 31, 2021 andywillguide Leave a comment

The development of mountain bike speed:

Since the mid-90s, the speed of mainstream mountain bikes has been changing. The development process is roughly like this: 3×8=24 speed→3×9=27 speed→3×10=30 speed→2×10=20 speed→2×11=22 speed →1×11=11 speed →1×12=12 speed.

The more popular speeds such as 3×9, 3×10, etc., have now been replaced by lesser speeds such as the front 1-2 speed and the rear 10-12 speed.

Why is there less and less speed?

Less than so many gears:

Bikers who often ride mountain bikes cross country know that in the process of cycling, the three-disc configuration is actually not very useful. Take me as an example. In the era of 3 discs, I would basically use the big disc to ride on the road, the middle disc for climbing or cross-country. For the adjustment of the front and rear speed ratio, I used more on the rear derailleur. It is not needed because it is too “light” and it feels like kicking in the air. And in use, the 3-disk system will have a lot of overlap between the front and rear speed ratios, which is actually too redundant.

The wheel diameter is getting bigger and bigger:
In addition, the current professional mountain bike wheel diameter is mostly 27.5 or 29 inches, which is much larger than the traditional 26 inches. The large wheel diameter and the larger chain ring make the foot feel very heavy, which is not suitable for cross country cycling. , So manufacturers will reduce the number of teeth of the chainring to a more suitable number of cross country teeth, such as a single disk with 34-36 teeth, or a small disk with about 26 teeth.

This allows the cyclist to obtain a more suitable pedaling force during cross country cycling.

Flywheel gears gradually increase:
At present, the flywheels of mainstream mountain bikes are all 10 and 11 speeds, and SRAM has even introduced a 12-speed flywheel. For the outdated 8 and 9-speed flywheel era, the current flywheel covers more speeds, with double discs and even A single disc is completely sufficient, and the increment range of the number of teeth is small, and a very fine increase/decrease of the gear ratio can be obtained-the fine speed change is more reflected in the flywheel than the chainring.

Easy to operate:
Too many gears will make you feel very complicated to operate, especially in cross country cycling that requires a high degree of concentration and can handle changing terrain at any time. Simple operation is particularly important. Therefore, streamlining the transmission system allows the cyclist to concentrate more on cycling. Moreover, the higher the intensity of mountain bike cycling, the more downhill and the less frequently the transmission system is used.

Practical application:
At present, 3×9 and 3×10 speeds are still in use, but they are mostly concentrated on 26-inch hardtail mountain bikes. 3×9 speeds are basically only used for entry-level mountain bikes. The dual-disc transmission system is mostly found in the middle and high level. Hardtail mountain bikes with 27.5 or 29-inch wheel diameters, and soft-tail bikes with stronger off-road strength (mountain bikes with rear shocks) basically use a single-disc transmission system.